What Is Gurnard?
Gurnard is one of the fish we are always pleased to see at the Brixham auction, and one that spent years being overlooked. At Hamiltons Fish we buy it when the day boats land it, prepared to order and never previously frozen. With its large, armoured head and spiny fins it is easy to recognise and not the most handsome thing on the slab, but the flesh beneath is firm, meaty and well worth your attention. For a long time it went mostly to lobster pots as bait. These days cooks and chefs value it for its texture and its mild, accommodating flavour.
What is gurnard?
Gurnard is a bottom-dwelling fish found widely in British waters. There are three kinds you are likely to see: red, grey and tub. They vary in colour and size, with red gurnard generally the largest of the three. The flesh is white and firm, holding together well in the pan and in the pot, which is part of what makes the fish so useful in the kitchen.
What does gurnard taste like?
The texture is the first thing people notice. Gurnard is firm and meaty, often compared to monkfish, and it keeps its shape during cooking. The flavour is mild and a little sweet, which means it carries other ingredients well, from garlic and tomatoes to the earthy notes of mushrooms. It is a fish that takes happily to bold flavours without being overwhelmed.
How to cook gurnard
Gurnard is at its finest cooked on the bone, where the flesh stays moist. A whole fish roasted in a hot oven is a fine and frugal centrepiece, and the meat lifts easily from the bone on the plate. Fillets can be floured and gently pan-fried in butter until golden, dried well first to crisp the skin. Because the flesh is firm, gurnard also holds up to slower cooking, which is why it has long been a favourite in fish stews, soups and a bouillabaisse. Take care with the sharp fins and bones when handling it, or have it prepared for you.
Buying gurnard
Look for firm flesh and a clean smell of the sea. Gurnard is at its best from late summer through the winter, and is better avoided in spring and early summer when it spawns. Ours is landed at Brixham and prepared to order, so it reaches you fresh and never previously frozen.
Frequently asked questions
What does gurnard taste like?
Gurnard has firm, meaty flesh, often likened to monkfish, with a mild and slightly sweet flavour. It holds its shape well and pairs happily with bold ingredients.
Is gurnard a sustainable fish?
Gurnard is widely regarded as a sound choice, and for years it was barely used at all, going mostly to lobster pots as bait. Buying it from short, traceable supply chains, as we do at Brixham, helps keep it that way.
Do you have to scale gurnard?
Yes, gurnard needs scaling, and the sharp fins and bony head call for care when handling it. If you would rather not, we can prepare it for you.
What can I use instead of gurnard?
For its firm texture, monkfish is the closest match. In stews and soups, any firm white fish will stand in, though gurnard's own flavour is part of the appeal.
Try Wild Gurnard, or explore more from Brixham Fish Market.
