What Are Skate Wings? How to Cook a Forgotten Classic
Skate is one of those fish that home cooks tend to walk past, which is a shame, because it is one of the easiest and most rewarding things you can put in a pan. At Hamiltons Fish our skate wings come from the Brixham day boats, usually blonde ray, prepared to order and never previously frozen. This guide covers what skate is, a little of its history, and how to cook it the classic way.
What is skate?
Skate is a flat, bottom-dwelling fish related to rays and sharks, and the part we eat is the "wing", which is the large pectoral fin. Here is something most people do not realise: the true common skate is now so depleted that it cannot legally be caught and sold. Since 2009 it has been illegal to target, retain or land common skate in UK and European waters, and any that are caught by accident must be returned to the sea. So "skate wings" is really a catch-all name, and the wings on the slab are almost always one of the more plentiful rays. Ours are usually blonde ray, a pale, sweet-fleshed fish caught in the waters off the South West. Instead of ordinary bones, a wing has soft ribs of cartilage running through it in a fan, with the flesh in ridges either side. That structure is the whole appeal: no fiddly little bones, and the cooked flesh lifts away from the cartilage in clean strips.
A fish with history
Skate and ray have been eaten around the British and Irish coast for centuries, and they have a particular place in the old fish and chip trade, where in some parts of the country a skate wing was as common as cod in the fryer. The name stuck even as the fishery changed. The true common skate, a giant that could reach nine feet across, was once abundant but was fished too hard for too long, which is why it is protected today and why the wings we now eat come from smaller, better-managed rays instead. Skate fell out of fashion at home for a while, partly through unfamiliarity, but it has been quietly returning to menus as cooks rediscover how good it is. There is an old trick worth knowing too: very fresh skate is sometimes rested a day before cooking, as the flesh firms up and eats better for it.
What does skate taste like?
Skate has a mild, gently sweet flavour and a firm texture. The cooked flesh is white and comes away from the cartilage in long, ridged strands, almost meaty in the way it holds together. People often compare it to scallops, though that is really about the texture and the faint sweetness rather than a true likeness, and it is closer to a clean, firm white fish. It is mild rather than strong, so it carries butter, capers, lemon and similar flavours well.
How to cook skate wings
The classic treatment, and still the finest, is pan-fried with a brown butter and caper sauce:
- Pan-fried. Pat the wing dry, dust lightly in seasoned flour, and fry in a little oil over a medium-high heat for three to four minutes a side until golden. Lift it out, add butter to the pan and let it foam and brown, then stir in capers and a squeeze of lemon and pour it over.
- Baked. Sit the wing on a tray with butter and lemon and bake for ten to twelve minutes, which is a gentle, hands-off option.
- Poached. A wing can be poached in a light court-bouillon, then dressed simply, for a softer finish.
Whichever way you go, do not overcook it, as the flesh can begin to break along its ridges. It is done as soon as the flesh turns opaque and parts easily from the cartilage. A wing of around 300g is a generous portion for one.
What to serve with skate
Skate keeps good company with sharp, simple things. Brown butter and capers is the traditional partner, and tartare sauce is the chip-shop classic, but it is also good with a squeeze of lemon and nothing more. New potatoes and a green vegetable, or a plain potato salad, round it into a meal without competing with the fish.
Buying and storing skate
Fresh skate should smell clean, of the sea. A faint note of ammonia is the sign to avoid, as it shows the wing is past its best, which is why buying from a short, fresh supply chain matters with this fish in particular. Ours comes off the Brixham day boats and is prepared to order, so it reaches you in good condition. Keep it chilled and cook it within a day or two, or freeze it on the day it arrives.
Frequently asked questions
What does skate taste like?
Mild and gently sweet, with a firm texture. It is often likened to scallops, but that is more about the texture than the taste, and it sits closer to a clean, firm white fish. It carries butter, capers and lemon well.
Is skate the same as ray?
They are close relatives, and most fish sold as skate in Britain is actually ray. Ours is usually blonde ray, which is pale, sweet and well suited to the classic skate recipes.
Is it illegal to catch skate?
It is illegal to target, retain or land true common skate in UK and European waters, as the species is critically endangered, and any caught by accident must be returned. The wings sold as "skate" are rays, which are more plentiful. Ours are usually blonde ray from the Brixham day boats.
Are there bones in a skate wing?
No ordinary bones. A skate wing has soft cartilage running through it in a fan, and the flesh comes away from it easily, which makes it one of the simplest fish to eat.
How do you cook skate wings?
Pan-fry them, dusted in seasoned flour, for three to four minutes a side, then finish with brown butter, capers and lemon. They can also be baked or poached. Take care not to overcook.
Why does some skate smell of ammonia?
A faint ammonia smell means the wing is no longer fresh and is best avoided. Properly fresh skate, like ours from the Brixham day boats, smells clean and of the sea.
Order fresh skate wings from Hamiltons Fish, landed by the Brixham day boats and prepared to order, never previously frozen. Browse more from Brixham Fish Market.
